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QUESTION OF THE DAY: i, I’m just getting started
with loom seed beading and I
see a lot of your patterns are very wide maybe 3, 4 or 5 inches.
The
only
needles I have are 2” long. Do I need longer needles (where can I
find
them?) or is there a way to use shorter needles on wide patterns? Thank you, David L Hello, I use size 10 needles that I get at the local fabric store. They do say beading, but sometimes I just use Size 10 sharps, in either case they are about 1.25 inch long and it is stiff. I think the long flexible needles are for bead stringing or applique work, or some other type of beadwork.. I do not know anyone who uses them for loom beading. You string all your beads on your thread as it lays on top of the left most warp thread, then you wraop them under and press them between the threads all the way across to the right, then you press your finger to raise up a few bead on th right, and run your needle through the beads above the warp threads, push/pull the needle through, and then do a few more until you work your way across the piece. The piece shown in the upper right on this page: http://www.free-beading-patterns.com/free-beading-pattern-wallet-native-american.html is about 9" across and all done with a 1.25" needle. OK? Did I explain that clearly? I hope so, unless you are left handed!! RE: Hatbands, most people make them as tie on straps, so you leave a couple inches for the leather strap to tie in back.. I suppose you could make it fit exactly, sew the ends together and never remove it from the hat it is custom made to fit? Donations accepted through the website. :-) Ayla SITE
VISITOR WRITES:
Hi Ayla,
I saw your loom on your site
today and wanted to ask how it works? Where do you attach the
thread? (see: Endless
Looms)
ANSWER: (from Ayla) You remove 4 screws on the bottom and remove the wooden base. Then your wrap your warp around the "triangle" the number of threads you need for your beadwork. and you tie the two ends together, then you screw the base back on and "roll" the threads until the knot is behind the front bar. Then you set a row of "spacer beads" and tie them at one end (to be removed later). It really is simple. The loom will allow you to do about 24" of beadwork, so you can do several pieces of you like, before you cut them all free. You just roll the work down and under the front bar as you go along. There are some photos on the Loom page showing that. The loom comes with a sample of beadwork in place, so you can see the row of spacers, the woven bit of "cloth" to begin your work, and some rows of beadwork. It helps to see that in person and to know the Warp doesn't need to be "tight" or under any pressure. I am getting good feedback on these. So, to answer your question, you attach the thread to itself, it is just one long thread. I was just holding the thread at the top bar and going round and round, then tying at the top bar. But when I had to put on a high warp count, I found it easier to tie the thread to the front bar, then start the count as I wound it past the top bar..when I got it all wrapped, I snip the thread from the front bar, and tie it at the top bar where my count started and ended. SITE VISITOR WRITES: While I am waiting for the loom to arrive, I am looking at a beading supply catalogue for needles and thread. A friend told me he uses the Nymo for both weft and warp threads, but the catalogue says it is not suitable for warp unless stretched. Another thread mentioned is quilting thread or carpet thread. I am using an 11/0 bead called Treasure Beads (Japanese) that is equivalent to the Delica bead. What do you use for beading? ANSWER: (from Ayla) I am an old timer and I just use sewing thread.I try and get 100% cotton, but I usually end up with cotton wrapped polyester. And #10 sharpshand sewing needles. I am using Czech size 11 beads.Your beads may require a finer needle, I do not know. I don't like the look of thick or noticeable warp thread.I usually use a very pale blue or green I never use Brilliant white. In some cases a red or black thread is suitable for a strong pattern. It is something to think about, white will gleam between your beads. In loom beading there is no real need to over tighten the threads or pull very hard on your weaving thread because you are going to sew this down to something usually, and you don't need it to "stand on its own". Some sewing thread and beading thread is unsuitable for Warp because it stretches, you do NOT want tightly wound and stretched warp threads to work with, because when you cut your beadwork free, the threads rebound and bunch up and make bumps and lumps all through your piece and then you fell defeated. That is why I designed my loom without the usual "tension" devices, you wrap the warp snug but not tight, because you want to be able to turn it down and around as you work on a long piece or several smaller. Since the warp is one long thread (not many all tightened at different tensions) as on some looms, if is easy to keep an even appearance to your finished beadwork, and it is impossible to use one of my looms and have a too-tight warp. I provided the sample beadwork right on the loom so you can see how tight or loose the warp thread is when I work. You just don't want or need the "guitar String" kind of tension. Don't start with an important piece, do a couple practice barrettes or something to get the feel of the threads, the needle, the loom etc.. SEND YOUR ANSWER to be ADDED HERE TO: updates@free-beading-patterns.com |
| SITE
VISITOR ASKS: I want to bead a barrette
with one of
your patterns, this will be my first attempt at making a
barrette, my
problem is after I get it beaded I do not know what to do next to make
the barrette complete, can someone please give me instructions on how
you finish it up, items needed, and how to do ANSWER: I have just backed several loom barrettes for the first time, and I have gotten away without pre punching, just using a sharps needle, and sometimes pulling it through with pliers. For stiffening the inside, I have found that plastic needlepoint mesh works great! I have more success with that, becomes it comes perfectly flat, and is very easy to cut to size. I use the medium size holes, because that is all I had on hand, and it worked fine, but if I was buying it (from Joane’s/Michaels) I would use the smallest mesh size available. Good luck! BG ANSWER: If you are making a simple bar barrette, you begin with 10 or 12 lines of thread, that is you make a little piece of cloth to start, then bead your pattern, and make another little piece of cloth at the other end. Cut you beadwork free from th eloom with couple inches of thread at each end. Fold the cloth over to the back, even the end of the beads and tape it in back with masking tape, do the same to the other end. At the point you have a neat little bit of bead work. Get a barrette back and a piece of soft leather.cut tiny holes for the barrette back to fit through and slip it on. Get a piece of plastic butter container lid or something else to stiffen the barrette. The layers are Bead work Stiffener then barrette with leather cut to size and shape. Whip stitch the edges all round and you are done. Also, you can do a fancy beaded edge pattern of you like as you sew it on.. Quick Answer from Ayla SEND YOUR ANSWER to be ADDED HERE TO: updates@free-beading-patterns.com |
| SITE VISITOR ASKS: Can you tell me how to sew a
beaded piece onto fabric or leather? ANSWER #1: Personally I just do a whip stitch all the way around the piece, and I am usually using the soft chamois type of leather. The book North American Indian Beadwook by Pamela Stanly-Millner has info that will help. Deb. ANSWER #2: When I want to sew a bead piece I have done onto leather I have what I call cheating, take a leather hole punch and punch a row of small holes along what would be the edge of the bead work and do a whip stitch to sew it to the leather. Some times if the leather isn't to thick you can sew a line across the leather ( without the thread of course) to give you a row of holes, this is of course using a leather needle in the machine. Sandy SEND YOUR ANSWER to be ADDED HERE TO: updates@free-beading-patterns.com |